Why so many of us should continue surfing, for YEARS..!

I'm OUT there ..

This chap for instance. Never mind that he’s obviously stored the board up in a garage rack, top up, with a blanket slung across the middle. A few wax smears and that’s all that’s needed.

– and who needs boardshorts when a pair of old rugger duds are handy – There is a touch of the five-eight about that build do you think?

The bloke’s still trim.

Probably the first wave in a while too, but he’s got his eyes on something breaking out there out of shot, a little point peeler maybe, a spot he used to surf as a youngster, maybe there are a few old mates out there in the pack.

Never mind the physical compromises, the game is still good.

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