Dane Peterson. (And George.)

I often get frustrated and bored with photographs of surfing because they focus on the performance stuff, rather than the whole context – the water, the waves, the light, other people, the geography… I like when pictures show these bigger contexts, because that’s what I love about being in the water, and surfing is just one part of that. I love the sensuality of being in the water, being in the moment and the ways that can be fun, quiet, busy, wet, messy, painful and beautiful.

The other day I met a guy who gave me his web address to check out. His name is Dane Peterson and it turns out he’s pretty nifty with a camera.  Dane’s photos are clever and beautiful in the ways they capture a moment within space and time, rather than something less specific or significant.  His photos make it clear that he loves the water and the different ways that people engage with it, and his own relationship to the ocean and to surfing certainly filters through with both subtlety and clarity.

Anyway, I was pleasantly and unexpectedly surprised.  I was also chuffed to find these pics of George surfing, that he put up the other day.

I have written about my intrigue and delight with George before…

I see him in the mornings when I go surfing at particular breaks. He pads along the beach in his steamer, his blonde hair unchanged from the beginning of time, clutching a carefully inflated black  surf mat under his arm. I love when I get the chance to see him catch waves on that mat – gliding along, drawing lines and arcs that I wouldn’t have considered, but which come to life as he scoots along on his pillow of air.

Anyway, Dane Peterson: surfer, photographer and weirdo. His work is worth checking out.