“Monsterboards” by Matthew McGregor-Mento and Eef on Vimeo via Toddy
poor fella, he should emigrate.
This guy is frothing on some of the most pure stoke I have come across.
What a champ 🙂
Reminds me of a German mate who lived in Australia for a year or so…
“This guy is frothing on some of the most pure stoke I have come across.”
Yes!! That is my new favourite sentence – for this week at least!
see what happens when you legalize marijuana?
frothing pure stoke indeed.
There are so many quotable quotes from this guy. For example:
‘My home spot is not a spot really, just a place where the sea meets the land.’
‘It’s always overhead when you’re on your belly.’
But this one – ‘Be a beginner. Ever heard a beginner complain about the surf?’ – I have to take issue with. My 12-year-old godson, drenched in the mythology of big, perfect waves like the posters on his walls, complains all the time about the conditions of the surf, even when he has obviously had a blast. I’m going to show him this clip. Maybe he’ll actually watch it if I manage to overdub it with Eminem.
I enjoyed so many things about this video, the early minutes were the finest. It was like listening to the blues – finding solace in someone else’s dreary world. Didn’t he say it was “only” a ten mile bike ride to the beach? then he gets to a place that is not really a spot, freezing, murky sea, tiny waves. “It’s always better than it looks”. So many quotable lines. Obama’s speech writers must find this man.
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