Miki Dora, surfing.

While the claim by Greg Noll that “Miki Dora was probably the purest surfer who ever waxed a board” troubles me historically, conceptually and aesthetically, and while I don’t really buy into the mythology and intrigue that seems to surround him, Dora is still an amusing character. And pretty interesting to watch surf in this footage. His style is so particular and the significance of surfing in his life is clear in the way he approaches both the waves, and the people around him in the water: with entitlement and determination. Somehow, I doubt we’d get on, but I would have liked to watch him surf from the water!

Advertisements