Miki Dora, surfing.
While the claim by Greg Noll that “Miki Dora was probably the purest surfer who ever waxed a board” troubles me historically, conceptually and aesthetically, and while I don’t really buy into the mythology and intrigue that seems to surround him, Dora is still an amusing character. And pretty interesting to watch surf in this footage. His style is so particular and the significance of surfing in his life is clear in the way he approaches both the waves, and the people around him in the water: with entitlement and determination. Somehow, I doubt we’d get on, but I would have liked to watch him surf from the water!
Love it!
my fave dora story comes from lopez in the book Surf Is Where You Find It in the chapter The Track of the Cat
Seems you’re infected with a “new sarcasm” Rebecca.
Fresh wind blowing offshore, eh?
An old bull defers and the jackels posing as pelicans descend.
Not that I don’t agree…
Reads like the analysis of a Bruce Irons interview. Well done!
I met Dora a couple of times in the late seventies and in late 80 briefly too, in southwest France. Surfed with him, dropped in on him, and had a couple of half decent yaps. Beneath the legend was a pretty decent chap in a strange sort of way.. self confessed small wave guy who ‘never rode left’. To buck the trend my minor experience was positive though cheques never came into the equation.
Small wave lover who hates going left? Wow. I have more in common with this man than I first imagined… How awkward!