Grandmothers

I am the surfer and lover of the sea I am because of my grandmother. She was a strong one. You stepped out of line and she’d bloody screw your ears. She made sure I helped in the garden, and so to appreciate how good a surf can feel after a day of hard work. She made sure I knew how to cook up a quick bite to eat after a late session. She introduced me to Old Stevo – who had a library of vintage surf magazines, videos, and  a plethora of instructive tales. Grandma would patiently listen to my own tales of conquering the line-up. She took me to the rock pools to teach me about sea anemones and tidal flows. The days spent with her just walking along the edge of the sea weren’t appreciated at the time. It’s funny what makes you pause and reflect and appreciate. For me it was someone else’s grandma sending him a birthday card with $50 in it (saved out of her pension) for his next surf trip. It brought a tear to my eye. I’ll visit grandma’s grave next time I am home. She deserves more visits and attention than I have been giving her.

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